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Narrow, Shallow, Craggy and High! Going Down

Jul 14

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We finished last week with three, longish days. Friday, we cruised almost 30 miles from Bobgaygeon to Fenelon Falls where we found the lock walls crammed with Loopers, holiday makers, and ice cream boats (folks who've come into town for, well. . . , the name speaks for itself). Without realizing it, we pirated the last space on the wall and the furthest from town from the folks who use what turned out to be an adjacent boat launch. Being Canadians, no one said anything and we enjoyed being adjacent to a pedestrian swing bridge which is open for boats in the summer and closed for walkers, bikers, and x-c skiers the other seasons of the year.

The Pedestrian Swing Bridge from Our Mooring above Fenelon Falls
The Pedestrian Swing Bridge from Our Mooring above Fenelon Falls

When we reached Lock 34, just below Fenelon Falls, the 120 foot long Kawartha Voyageur cruise ship was in the lock down bound against us. Being the first boat there for that lift, we tied up to the Blue Line to wait for the Voyageur to exit. Soon another boat joined us on the Blue LIne and two more in the channel just below. The skipper of the Voyageur announced that he would be leaving the lock headed down stream shortly. Boats 3 and 4 were clueless and just stayed in the middle of the channel. Needless to say, when a boat the size of the Voyageur came out of the lock and started downstream, there was some scrambling to get out of his way.

The Kawartha Voyageur Coming out of Lock 34 at Fenelon Falls; Its Bow Folds Up So It Fits in the Lock
The Kawartha Voyageur Coming out of Lock 34 at Fenelon Falls; Its Bow Folds Up So It Fits in the Lock

Between Bobcaygeon and Fenelon Falls, we had a mix of very slow going in narrow, shallow, silty, weedy channels and high speed runs on Sturgeon Lake. Much to the Admiral's dismay, coming off the lake, I made my first wrong turn on the Loop. It took us down an interesting channel towards the town of Lindsey. She realized it after about 5 miles and, thoroughly rebuked, I made a U-turn. We did, however, get to see more of the country side and always interesting bird life: an osprey nest on a high pole with two chicks, lots of Canada geese and cormorants with their broods, great blue heron, swans with multiple babies, and red-winged blackbirds.


Interestingly, because we were headed west and weaving north and south, we traveled in and out of the Canadian shield as we traversed its edge. That meant some of the waters we were in were studded with islands and granite rocks while others were flat bottomed without rocks or islands and laden with silt.


In Fenelon, I made another trip to Canadian Tire, this time by bike. I needed a pump to remove a wee bit of surplus gear fluid from our port pod. I found a pump but its hose seems to be too big to reach down to the level of the fluid in the pod. Sigh.

Cap on His Bike at Canadian Tire
Cap on His Bike at Canadian Tire
The Bridge Over Fenelon Falls--Lots of Community Pride
The Bridge Over Fenelon Falls--Lots of Community Pride

On Saturday, we reached the highest elevation on the Trent-Severn Waterway and Americas Great Loop on Balsam Lake at 840 feet above sea level. We traveled for miles through the Trent Canal--a one boat wide passage cut out of granite that was the final link conecting Port Severn to Trenton. The Trent Canal held your attention. Craggy granite lay on each side of our propeller pods and a deviation of a few feet in either direction could have spoiled our day, our week, our month. And we also encountered a

The Trent Canal--Pretty but Treacherous
The Trent Canal--Pretty but Treacherous
Craggy Granite Just a Few Feet from Our Props Went on For iles
Craggy Granite Just a Few Feet from Our Props Went on For iles

few logs, one of which the Admiral had to prod out of our way with the boat hook--a difficult task given its size and water laden nature.


Nonetheless, we finally emerged at the end of the world--well, anyway, in the 60 foot high, Lock 36 pan that would start our descent from the Loop's high point of 840 feet down to Lake Huron at 580 feet. It really did look like you could sail off the end and, I guess if the lock gates weren't there, you could!

The Boats Ahead of Us While We Waited Our Turn for the 60 Foot High, Lock 36, Lift Lock
The Boats Ahead of Us While We Waited Our Turn for the 60 Foot High, Lock 36, Lift Lock
The Admiral Went to the Stern of the Boat and Refused to Look Down
The Admiral Went to the Stern of the Boat and Refused to Look Down
The Arch Bridge As We Left the Trent Canal
The Arch Bridge As We Left the Trent Canal

We exited the Trent Canal onto Canal Lake through the High Arch Bridge--another narrow, stay focused, moment.


We capped our week on Sunday with what Tom Sawyer correctly called out--a continuation of our lock marathon--five locks going down a total of 62 feet to Lake Simcoe. Between waits at the locks, loading and unloading the relatively small locks with three or four other boats each time, and traveling nearly 22 miles, it took us almost five hours. There were some great birds, however: loads of eastern kingbirds, a northern cardinal, Canadian geese, osprey. Two kingfishers (my personal favorite) undulated back and forth across the river right in front of our bow--very close up and lots of fun to watch. I should also mention that, on Saturday at Rosedale's Lock 35, we observed another green heron--rare and lots of fun to see.


We find going down in locks just a bit more challenging than going up. Going down, the fenders sometimes stick to the wall and the boat slides down the fender leaving you unprotected if the fender pops out. We've learned to play whackamole but, like so many things on boats, it requires constant attention with me watching from the bow and the Admiral from the stern.

Fenders, Lock Cables and a Tie Off.  We Uncleat and Hold the Lines When Going Up or Down
Fenders, Lock Cables and a Tie Off. We Uncleat and Hold the Lines When Going Up or Down

And, it was hot and humid with temps in the 90s and humidity high. Because the locks were close together, we weren't able to run the generator and air conditioning. Consequently, our t-shirts and other apparel were sticky and wet and our heads and faces dripped with sweat. And, if you don't believe me, ask Fido--a dog so hot he didn't even wake up as I walked around him finding the best angle for a pic!

Too Hot and Humid for Even an Hello, Let Alone an Ear Scratch
Too Hot and Humid for Even an Hello, Let Alone an Ear Scratch






Jul 14

4 min read

9

60

0

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