Yesterday, with a 60 nautical mile cruise south from Georgetown to Charleston, we completed our final run with our beloved Back Cove 41. In two weeks, we will take delivery of our 2020 Sabre 45 and commence Part II of our Loop. More on that below, but first:
We started yesterday's run in a strong 15 knots of wind which quickly grew to 20-25 with gusts in the 30s. We almost never have to back off the dock but yesterday was the day--I'm happy to say that even in a stiff breeze, we did fine sidling into the fairway and then backing through a narrow L shaped cut out into the harbor. The stiff breeze squiring the day's cruise did not slow down the pelican's and tern's fishing activity. Most of the morning, they dove in front of the boat, beside the boat, and especially behind the boat pulling up one fish after another. And, using their talons instead of their beaks, osprey caught fish as well. Numerous dolphins joined the fray, a beautiful spectacle for us but undoubtedly not much fun for the fishies.
We docked as requested on the T-head at Safe Harbor Bristol in Charleston--a good thing as there were no dockhands to help and the Admiral had to jump off and secure the boat by herself. The Admiral is awesome and even with gusts well above 30, we pulled off the maneuver in good style. It didn't hurt that the wind was more or less onto the dock though the current tried its best to move us aft.
Of course we have to pause and reflect about our seven months on board. We've traveled 3365 nautical miles (3873 statute miles) through at least 11 and maybe 12 states: Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Mississippi, Alabama, Tennessee, Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, and, when crossing Lake Michigan, we may have "nicked" Indiana. We've made seventy distinct marina visits and anchored in four different locations. Some of both the marinas and anchorages have been spectacular. We've had great spots in Chicago, Mobile, Port St. Joe, Tarpon Springs, St. Pete, Titusville, St. Augustine, Savannah, Cattle Pen Creek, Beaufort (SC), and Charleston. Many other towns and their small marinas were also wonderful. We've seen places and met people we never would have otherwise. We've learned that most, not all, commercial villages have been abandoned and we've seen far too many boarded up store fronts. Need something? We'll run you out to the strip. Georgetown, SC, Tarpon Springs and Port St. Joe, Florida, Holland, Michigan and St. Charles, Missouri were notable exceptions.
Who could forget our first day underway--100 miles WSW across Lake Michigan, out of sight of land, and then arriving in DuSable Harbor right "under" the skyscrapers of downtown Chicago?
And, after riding out a storm there for several days, spending our second day underway going through the Chicago Lock into the Chicago River and then navigating the heart of downtown along the famous architectural tour route.
We had some scares: nudged an uncharted spoils pile on the Missouri River, bumped a log on the Cumberland River, and ran aground in the ICW. But none of those compares with losing our steering on the Mississipi River in five knots of current with a tug and its barges coming up river against us and the interstate bridge also looming below. Thank God we have one of the world's best anchors which caught and held firm without hesitation!
We've seen hundreds of miles of spectacular undeveloped country, watched a deer swim across the river just in front of us, looked on as two raccoons cleaned their breakfasts on the bank of the river, and observed thousands of birds and hundreds of dolphin. The Lake Okeechobee Waterway delighted us with its plethora of birds, wildlife, and undeveloped scenery.
With a full holding tank, we've gone a week peeing in the shower (drains overboard) and pooping in marinas when all the pump out stations along the way were inoperable due to last year's hurricanes. And, we've struggled with the boat's electrical issues, some of them undoubtedly caused by us, although by New Year's we had all the major ones worked out.
We've met wonderful people who were kind and quick to lend a hand or a car. I can't say enough about Chad from Mobile, another friend at Hoppies Marina who moved mobile homes for a living, the family on the sailboat, Sloth, the harbor master at Southport, or the pilot and stewardess who took us from Barkley Lake to have dinner at Kentucky Lake. Together, these great people typify the countless other wonderful folks we've interacted with.
So, where from here? The Admiral and I are heading to Pittsburgh for Easter with Elizabeth, John, Grace and Teddy.
When we return, we'll begin the process of disembarking from the Back Cove and moving onto the Sabre. Admiral Jackie will then head to Maine for a month and good friend and neighbor, Admiral Joe Dyer and I will spend two weeks taking the Sabre 45 from Charleston to New York. Our new Katahdin will spend the second half of May in a marina a few miles up the Hudson from the City and in early June, Admiral Jackie and I will begin our summer expedition. We'll travel up the Hudson through Lake Champlain to Montreal, up to Ottawa, down to Lake Ontario, up the Trent Severn Waterway to Georgian Bay, through the North Channel to Mackinac Island, and then back down Lake Michigan to our starting point in Holland. If time allows, we hope to swing by Chicago where we will visit Nat and John Henry in their new home.
We know two things for certain. Our trip will not go as planned but it will definitely be an adventure!
Finally, here's to the bosun/aka Rascal, one of the best shipmates ever who sadly didn't live to see the completion of his own great American adventure.
