Yesterday, Monday, November 18, we completed our journey down the Tennessee Tombigbee Waterway when we reached the confluence of the Tombigbee and Black Warrior Rivers. We are now officially on the Black Warrior-Tombigbee Waterway which will, in a few more days of cruising, take us to Mobile Bay. In planning the trip, the Tenn-Tom with its 10 locks, sharp curves, shoals, extended narrow sections where you are not able to anchor, and extensive towboat and barge traffic loomed large in my imagination. I am very happy to say that we traveled it without incident and have arrived in Demopolis, only a few days cruise from Mobile Bay.
Founded in 1817 by French colonists, the City of Demopolis prospered as an early commercial port at the confluence of the Tombigbee and Black Warrior rivers and it is still a center of commerce for its surrounding region.
That said, like so many small towns, it's village center hosts way too many empty shops and buildings--a sad reminder of times gone by before the automobile, convenience, and Walmart pulled everything out to the strip--in this case, the Route 80 strip.
With no Uber, no Lyft, and a previously committeed marina courtesy car, the Admiral found a driver, Mary, to take us downtown from the marina. Mary and a guy that turned out to be her husband picked us up. He, of course, was driving and it wasn't long before Mary shared that their ability to return us to the marina might be delayed because of his late afternoon court appearance for speeding. Hmm. At that point I said to him I bet she was his wife. He didn't have to ask how I knew.
They dropped us off and we did a quick walk up and down Main Street--most of the shops that are still "open" were nonetheless closed on Monday afternoon. We found a little shop, had a surprisingly good cappuccino, and then headed across the town square blaring Christmas carols and found a few of the city's historic sites and churches. It's clear that the residents of town have community pride.
Homes were well kept, lawns neatly mowed, the town square free of any trash, and the streets neat and clean.
Bluff Hall is quite an attractive home--now preserved--that a 19th century merchant's slaves built for his newly married daughter. It's grounds also hold a log cabin that was actually found some years ago inside a building that was being demolished.
The City (population 7000) has not forgotten its Confederate heritage or the indignities and losses inflicted by the Federal government. The main intersection in town holds a monument to Our Confederated Dead
and the Episcopal Church, founded in 1834, notes that its original place of worship was burned by Federal troops during their occupation of the City.
We had a lovely dinner at a restaurant called Bistro Upstairs. Owners Mike and Susan Grayson each took the time to come and visit with us. Both were born and brought up in Demopolis and, with a couple of interludes away for Mike, have lived here all their lives. Susan was an optician for 32 years and Mike served as Mayor for a couple of terms. They've owned the restaurant for nine years; Mike cooks and Susan serves as manager and hostess. They are very proud of of their City--a good place to raise children and a haven of relative "safety" in Alabama's black belt (so named for its soil) much of which is known for domestic and other types of violence.
After dinner, Mary and her husband picked us up and regaled us with tales of court--stories I expect you could here in any town in America.
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