Yo-Yo--Back to Charleston

Photo Credit: Evan Amos Vanamo

We arrived at Safe Harbor Bristol in Charleston yesterday with 20-25 knot winds gusting to the mid 30 knots and waves reaching 2-3 feet. Fortunately, we arrived at low tide so no current and, with a bit of effort, we docked safely in a fairly narrow slip. Our arrival completed our winter cruise from Charleston to the west coast of Florida and Key West--a total of 1805 statute miles. We'll begin our spring travels up the coast to Maine later this week.

Sunset in Charleston on Our 2026 Southern Adventure--Now on to Maine!

Having stayed an extra day in Savannah to avoid stiff winds and the exposed dock at Freeport Marina, we made a short, early morning trip to Daufuskie Island in calm seas and partly cloudy weather. We enjoyed the usual birds and saw lots of dolphins. Maybe because of the hour, the dolphins curiosity led them to check us out and we enjoyed a number of close-up encounters.

Gas Plant on the Savannah River

Accessible by ferry from Hilton Head, Daufuskie Island caught the Admiral's interest because of its maritime location and well-advertised equestrian center. Ever the opportunist, she organized a house hunting tour of Haig Point, a gated golf, equestrian, tennis, and boating community. We enjoyed a couple of hours with Laura, a forty something year old realtor who had lived on the island for 19 years. and raised her kis there. Haig Point was low key, a bit dated, but lovely. In addition to its 27 holes of golf, it offered great beach access, a club swimming pool, and several different venues for meals, events, and gatherings both formal and casual. The development has its own ferry and dock and transports residents' goods in special enclosed trailers (think airline luggage carts but somewhat smaller. It's a bit unclear how the HOA sustains itself. It currently has 524 residences that range from town homes to ocean-side mansions with roughly a third occupied full time, a third seasonally (summer) and a third used as weekend and vacation homes. Very high annual dues and special assessments for capital projects apparently sustain the organization. Fortunately, we arranged a golf cart rental for the day because here's the catch: Outside of Haig Point and the CrabShack at Freeport Marina, there is almost nothing else on the island except the occasional shack and 'gator. The Admiral and I concluded that Haig Point would be a great place to go to a very expensive golfing summer camp but would not be a suitable second home location for these aging boomers.

One of Three Event Venues at Haig Point

After our tour, we met the equestrian folks near the lighthouse for a beach ride. Neither of us have ridden much in the past couple of years and we enjoyed a casual hour long hack along the beach and trails of the development.

A Beach Ride at Haig Point

We left Daufuskie the next morning to head to Beaufort (Bewfurt). Three bald eagles hearalded our send off although, truth to tell, it appeared they were far more interested in their own territorial dispute as the resident pair warned the encroacher in no uncertain terms that it was not welcome here. Not far out into Calibogue Sound between Daufuskie and Hilton Head, the autopilot took over and started steering like a drunken sailor. On a phone call with Joe from CCYS, we at least partially reset its internal compass and normal steering resumed, at least temporarily. We learned today in Charleston that the GPS antenna is faulty and will have to be replaced. It's been the source of a number of problems over the past several months.

We arrived in Beaufort where, because of a high wind forecast, we had decided to spend a couple of nights. As we were fueling up, the attendant, Kathy, told us that we would be spending two nights on the face dock with three knots of current in opposite directions as the tide swung and 40 knot gusts that would be backing around in half a circle. We pleaded for a berth inside the marina and were told there might be one. Kathy disappeared to measure it and came back saying that we would fit but that it was a tricky spot to get into and that I should take a look before we tried it. I looked and, sure enough it was tricky. We would have to back down a long narrow fairway between boats lining both sides and then shoehorn into the last spot on the starboard side. A three knot current would be pushing me diagonally in the direction I was backing up and onto the boats on our starboard side. Oh what the hell, let's try it. You gotta love a Sabre and her pods and I'm happy to say we made it without incident. And, it did blow. Hard. Even deep inside the marina, we bounced around some and strained against our lines as the wind pummeled us. Not only that, the wind brought the first heavy pollen of the year. the tree and grass pollen counts were both very high and, together, they coated every surface of the boat a bright yellow. Itchy eyes and sinus congestion anyone?

Safe at the Dock

The second oldest town in the state, South Carolina authorized Beaufort in late 1710 and chartered it in January, 1711. Shortly thereafter, St. Helena's Anglican Church, otherwise

known as the Parish Church of St. Helena was founded in 1712, Its building, erected in 1724 and modified and expanded in the 1800s is one of the longest, continually used churches in the United States. The British occupied the church during the revolutionary

Parish Church of St. Helena--Built 1724

war, a major set back for the church's patriot parishioners. However, as a result, both British officers and patriot officers and soldiers are buried in the churchyard where the flags of both countries fly.

Today, Beaufort attracts numerous tourists and sponsors many events all year long. We stumbled on a street chalk art festival with a dozen or more artists displaying their skills

while children from toddlers to teens dabbled more casually with the medium. A 4 piece country band with base, guitar, fiddle and banjo entertained both artists and spectators.